Oscar Graham has opened (and closed) more Peruvian restaurants in Phoenix than anyone else. But while he tends to pack up and move around town every few years, his menu remains a glowing introduction to one of the world’s most varied and vibrant natural fusion cuisines. Tumi 2.0 — Graham’s swan song, he says — brings him back to where it all began, to the space in Mesa that once housed Contigo Peru. There are Japanese-influenced ceviches, such as his signature “Orgia de Mariscos,” a school of raw fish swimming in citrus and pisco. Chaufa — Chinese-Peruvian influences — show up in dishes such as the stir-fried batons of steak in lomo saltado, or mounds of fried rice. Italian pokes its nose into tallarines verdes, dressed with pesto and nuts, or aji de gallina, a rich Peruvian chicken stew made with nuts, yellow chiles and Parmesan cheese. And few can spit-roast a chicken like Peru does. Graham’s is succulent and deftly seasoned, served with fried yuca and house hot sauces. ($$$)