Don’t spend too much time trying to categorize CC’s on Central. Whether you call it Southern, Creole or soul food (or, more accurately, all three) matters a whole lot less than the fact that it tastes really, really good. Mother and son Sharon and Devan Cunningham have roots in Louisiana and Mississippi, and it shows in dishes such as the gloriously light and bright shrimp étouffée, informed by tradition but not beholden to it. The duo's beef debris — stewed until tender and rich with just a touch of sourness — is outstanding when ladled over smooth, creamy grits. Excellent renditions of breakfast basics share menu space with wild concoctions such as Hong Kong-style praline French toast spiced with cardamom and fennel. You can get some knockout fried catfish on Fridays, Devan’s bizarre and wildly delicious wings on Wednesdays and Sharon’s soul food on the first Sunday of the month, not to mention whatever they feel like featuring on any given day. But whatever you get, it’s guaranteed to be good. ($$)