Are Valley chefs ‘working for the star’ as Michelin anticipation builds?

A single customer requests a table rather than a seat at the bar. During their meal, they knock a fork onto the floor. In a brief conversation with their server, they mention visiting from another state. 

Usually, this wouldn’t be a big deal. Even when the guest breaks out their phone to take photos of every dish.

But just as the globally revered Michelin Guide approached its century anniversary, it announced in December that it would, for the first time, produce a book that includes Arizona restaurants.

Since then, these tiny interactions — or possible tells — have Valley chefs and restaurant staff wondering whether their customer could be an inspector with the power to change their lives forever.

Phoenix New Times spoke with some of the most decorated chefs in the Valley to ask about this new pressure. The Michelin Guide, chefs say, will augment a dining scene still working to prove it belongs among the nation’s best. The chefs also told us they’re approaching their jobs with a newfound sense of anxiety.

“It’s every chef’s dream to achieve a Michelin star because it’s a complete team effort and everyone’s work is given a star — it doesn’t just go to the chef,” says Cory Oppold, chef and owner of Scottsdale restaurant COURSE. “As a team, we are all very excited. And scared shitless at the same time.”  

Michelin’s new guide is regional, and may include restaurants from Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico and Utah. An exceptional restaurant could receive one, two or three stars. Fewer than 300 restaurants in the United States have any Michelin stars, and about 80% of those have a single star. Currently, 40 U.S. restaurants have two stars. A mere 14 have three. All of those restaurants live with the rational fear that the guide could revoke their stars in future editions.

In March, the Arizona Office of Tourism told New Times that Michelin will announce its Southwest ratings in August, likely in Las Vegas. However, that was walked back and a date and location has not been officially confirmed, per a Michelin Guide representative. 

The sense of anticipation, and the possibility of an inspector sitting down to eat, have Valley chefs and restaurant staff operating at the top of their game, just in case. Customers may reap the benefits of this new atmosphere. But the added pressure can come at a price.

“Would I say no to being recognized? No, of course not. But be careful what you wish for,” says Lori Hashimoto, chef and owner of Phoenix’s Hana Japanese Eatery and 2022 James Beard Award semifinalist. “You might become something else, and that may not be who you want to be.”

Gossip grips Valley chefs

Chef Nigel Lobo’s fascination with Michelin began when he was growing up in Dubai. He researched how inspectors, charged with determining which restaurants should earn a coveted Michelin star, do their jobs.

After 17 years in the industry and working in some of the world’s top kitchens, Lobo is now Indibar’s group executive chef. He knows that conditions evolve — and this includes the once tell-tale signs that an inspector is in the house.

Asking detailed questions about the dishes, requesting a list of allergy accommodations and dropping utensils (to see how long it takes staff to pick them up), Lobo says, may not be an indication of anything other than thoughtfulness or clumsiness. Inspectors aim to dine as any other patron would, without perks or special treatment that could compromise the rigorous rating process. 

“They have become good at presenting as normal guests,” says Lobo, whose Paradise Valley restaurant received a James Beard Award semifinalist nod earlier this year. “They know how to blend in.” 

That hasn’t kept chefs and restaurateurs from trying to sniff them out.

Historically, inspectors dined alone. They’re always from out of state or from abroad. They’re not chatty. So the staff tries to strike up a short conversation to determine where a guest may be from, why they’re in town, and which other restaurants they have visited. 

Recently, a customer made the rounds who was thought to have made reservations under different names. A group text chain shared by Valley chefs started to pop off.

Ivan Jacobo, the chef and owner of Anhelo in Old Town Scottsdale, says chefs in the group chat keenly watch single diners at tables of their own. 

“Ever since the announcement, we have noticed more solo diners,” Jacobo says. “But that could be us tricking ourselves into thinking solo diners are coming.” 

Oppold is familiar with the chef text chain. While many pay close attention to parties of one, Oppold has expanded his focus.

“I heard that they tend to arrive in pairs or parties of three,” says Oppold. “That way, each guest can order different parts of the menu. One may get the wine pairing while the other goes for cocktails.” 

Oppold isn’t sure whether an inspector has visited his fine-dining, tasting-menu-only restaurant because he wasn’t certain COURSE would be on Michelin’s radar. He does believe inspectors started visiting Phoenix before the guide announcement five months ago.

At Feringhee Modern Indian Cuisine in Chandler, co-founder Madhavi Reddy says guests constantly assure her that her restaurant is on Michelin’s radar. But she doesn’t know whether an inspector has visited. The restaurant was co-founded by chef Sujan Sarkar, who is one of three Indian chefs to previously helm a Michelin-starred restaurant. 

“The team is very closely watching,” Reddy says. “But we haven’t obviously seen anything.”

It’s a different story at Kai, the signature restaurant at the Sheraton Grand at Wild Horse Pass on the Gila River Indian Community. As of early April, general manager Jeremy Stulak believes inspectors have dined there four times. He also believes “on good authority” that the Michelin ceremony will likely be in August or September.

Kai is Arizona’s only AAA Five Diamond restaurant and is in its 18th year of earning a Forbes Five Star rating. Other local general managers have reached out to Stulak to ask what they should be looking for. His response? “Everything.”

“With Forbes and AAA, you almost develop this spidey sense,” Stulak says. “A lot of the pressure comes when the paranoia creeps in because you haven’t done it before.” 

Drew Anderson, the chef de cuisine at Kai, says he believes inspectors will visit a restaurant at least three times to determine consistency and also to experience any menu changes due to the seasons or chef’s whims. Previous or potential future visits don’t affect how the kitchen is run, the chef says. 

“Absolutely not. Not in any way, shape or form,” Anderson says. “We don’t change what we do. To us, every guest that sits down is an inspector.” 

When Christopher Gross, chef at Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion, worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris in the 1980s, inspectors made outrageous requests that tipped their hand. For example, if quail was on the menu, they’d ask to see the bird with proof of the farm and its tag. 

Times have changed. While the 1995 James Beard Award winner isn’t sure whether his restaurant has been visited, Gross admits to Googling possible clues.

“So you’re looking at every single diner,” he says. 

Taking photos and notes — despite the ubiquity of social media food posts — are potential signs.

Gross says he jokes with customers: “If you want extra bites or glasses of wine, come in with a notepad on your knee and take a few pictures.” 

Not long ago, one diner fit this criteria, claiming he was in town for a nearby convention. As the guest proved chatty, Gross eliminated him as a suspect.

“That is not the M.O. of an inspector,” says Gross. “Maybe all of this is (like) playing telephone.” 

Excitement and fear

Gross says since the announcement was made, his team has doubled down on their pursuit of excellence.

“You try to do your best, always. But it pushes you. Have I missed something?” Gross says. “You’re looking closer and think, ‘Yeah, I could do better on that.’ But we do that for every single guest.”

Gross thinks Michelin wants to reward more than great food. He hopes his restaurant stands out for its retractable roof, purse stands at the tables and the glass bathrooms with stunning views.

After the announcement, Reddy and the Feringhee staff held a meeting specifically about Michelin to ensure daily operations were at the top of their game. 

“There is no room for any mistakes,” Reddy says. “We know the standards of the Michelin star, and those are the standards of our hospitality group.” 

At Indibar, chef Nigel Lobo hopes his restaurant will get its shot. The prospect of a star has invigorated his whole team, he says. “But at the end of the day, the restaurant wins a Michelin star and not a chef,” he says. “To be proud of what we put on the plate is the most important part.”

Stulak says the wait has been a roller coaster, with suspense growing as riders make the slow climb to the pinnacle. This is where the true rush happens, before the inevitable plunge when Michelin hands out the honors. 

“The anticipation of knowing or not knowing, that is arguably the greatest driver,” Stulak says. “If you win the star, then fantastic. If not, while heartbreaking, that gives us an idea to see what we’re up against for the following year.”

Deflecting the spotlight

Charleen Badman, chef and co-owner of FnB and 2019 James Beard Award winner, never assumed her Old Town Scottsdale eatery had the kind of pomp and flair needed to be in star territory. Badman has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants abroad, and in her own restaurant, she strives to showcase the best ingredients Arizona has to offer. That continues to be her focus, rather than seeking accolades, she says.

“A lot of people put a lot of faith in us when they walk through those doors,” she says. “I want to give them the best experience possible, so nothing’s changed. I’m not going to do something different. It’s already hard enough to do our work — this doesn’t need to be any harder.” 

After Michelin’s announcement, Hana’s Hashimoto saw social media reels from chefs questioning the pay-to-play element. 

The decision to include Arizona was partly fueled by the Arizona Office of Tourism paying Michelin $200,000. Restaurants don’t pay to be considered.

After 19 years running her family restaurant, Hashimoto focuses on the customers. They helped her restaurant through the pandemic, they celebrate anniversaries and birthdays at the restaurant. Many in the Japanese community tell her the dishes remind them of what their parents or grandparents used to make.

“That star on the wall, it is what it is,” Hashimoto says. “But the community around you is who makes you what you are. They’re the ones who allow you to live your dream. My food isn’t always pretty, and they may not be plated perfectly. But it feels like home, it feels warm. I don’t want to change that about Hana.” 

In 2015, Martha Stewart was in town for the Phoenix Open and was craving tempura. Award-winning chefs Chris Bianco and Silvana Salcido Esparza pointed Stewart to Hana. 

“That’s how she ended up here,” Hashimoto says. “Not the Michelin Guide.”

‘Working for the star’

Because the star goes to the restaurant, everyone connected to it stands to benefit. Oppold thinks about the impact a star would have on his team.

“It brightens their futures for whatever they try to do later on,” Oppold says. “It’s very beneficial for Arizona, especially if they are finding these spots that never got a James Beard recognition.”

Gross experienced this firsthand. Doors opened to him as a youngster in the industry thanks to having Michelin restaurants on his resume. He joked with his staff after the December announcement.

“Be on your toes — Michelin could come in at any time,” Gross told his team. “But don’t think of the restaurant: Think of yourself. If we get a star, you could quit and have a better-paying job the next day.” 

He explains that winning a star is a great accomplishment that comes with a price. Unlike James Beard Awards, Michelin stars can be renewed year after year, or they can be lost. 

This pushes winners to take steps to maintain stars: hiring more people, changing the dinnerware, studying every plate to see if the thin green trim is even or if it needs to be painted over. Chefs begin second- and third-guessing minutiae.

“If you win, then the fear of losing it creeps in,” Gross says. “There’s the pressure to keep it up. Then, you’re working for the star.” 

Impact on Arizona dining 

Chefs who miss out on the first guide may be wondering this fall what they could’ve done better. But for now, they’re united in the belief that the guide’s arrival will boost the state’s dining. 

Kai’s Anderson points to culinary hubs like New York, Washington, D.C., and Chicago — the company Phoenix wants to keep.

“The impact will be massive and create a more thriving restaurant scene,” Anderson says. “It’ll make for a healthy drive and competitive nature, which all chefs want in order to get to the next level.” 

When Lobo moved from Dubai to Phoenix, he was surprised that the Michelin Guide was not already here. He saw exciting new concepts emerging throughout the city and wanted to be in the pack. 

When he opened Indibar a year ago, Lobo joined with executive chef Ajay Singh to model the concept on the Michelin-starred restaurants he worked at and dined at during his holidays. The James Beard semifinalist nod whetted his and Singh’s appetite for awards season. 

“The guide is going to elevate all the restaurants in the Valley and bring foodies from all over the world to Arizona,” Lobo says. “There are some fantastic chefs cooking food, and this time they all have the opportunity to shine in the limelight. Michelin brings this aura of magic to the entire restaurant industry, which makes you want to drive to be your best self on a day-to-day basis.”

Badman looks forward to the attention helping restaurants stay buzzy during the slow summer months. It will also help update Phoenix’s reputation as “cowboys, potatoes and cactus,” in her words.

But Hashimoto says she hopes the party won’t leave Arizona’s smaller and casual eateries behind.

“If we become a dining destination, don’t forget about the little people, the mom-and-pops, because that’s where I feel the heart of the restaurant industry really is,” Hashimoto says. “I don’t ever want it to lose its soul in the recognition.”

Dreams and a day off

Anhelo chef Ivan Jacobo isn’t optimistic about his Scottsdale fine-dining restaurant’s chances. Major repairs forced his downtown Phoenix restaurant, Flour & Thyme, to temporarily close in January. If that hadn’t taken as much attention and energy, he may be more excited.

“The restaurant hasn’t been operating at 100% because I haven’t been able to give 100%. I’m not giving an excuse, but that’s me being realistic,” Jacobo says. “I hope they haven’t dined with us, and if they did, I hope it was a good day.”

But whenever Anhelo is mentioned in the same conversation as Christopher’s, COURSE and Cafe Monarch, he views that as a win.

“Just that my restaurant is being talked about in that way, how could I be sad if I don’t get a Michelin star?” Jacobo says. “But getting one would be truly amazing.”

Years ago, Jacobo’s brother spotted a Michelin Man figurine at an antique store and gifted it to him. It’s been a presence on Anehlo’s kitchen counter ever since, long before Arizona became eligible for the guide.

Today, it’s a visual motivator and also a reality check of a standard that may just be out of reach. For now. 

“So many people tell us, ‘You deserve a Michelin star,'” Jacobo says. “But I see us not performing to the level we had or should be. If we don’t get it this year, I promise, we will get one next year.”

Traditionally, Michelin stars were reserved for fine-dining establishments with white tablecloths that served French or other classic, elegant fare. But the guide has modernized to include street food-style eateries and cuisines from regions that had been previously ignored, Lobo says. La Barbecue, an Austin eatery known for serving top-tier smoked meats on paper plates, and Taquería El Califa de León, a Mexico City taco stand, are recent examples. 

To win a star has been a lifelong aspiration for Lobo. To win the honor for Indian cuisine would make it even more special.

“Food connects culture and people together, and honest, authentic food will be in the spotlight,” he says. “It would be a childhood lifelong dream come true.” 

Badman is excited to see the process unfold. Getting an invitation to the ceremony isn’t a guarantee of a star, but she says if FnB does receive an invite, her heart may beat a little faster as the restaurants are called out.

“You get that invite, and you’re definitely going to be nervous,” Badman says. “If so, I hope it’s going to be on a Monday. That’s my only day off.”