Best Of Phoenix® 2010 Winners
Food & Drink
When your name is Pie Snob (right down to your personalized license plate), you'd better deliver. Not a problem for Traci Wilbur. At the urging of her pie-lovin' pals, Wilbur started Pie Snob a year ago in a small building behind her Arcadia home. With her recipes and a motto ("Life's too short to eat bad pie!") Wilbur whips up more than 20 kinds of handcrafted pastry art, including apple (her best-seller), nutty-good pecan, decadent chocolate cream, and Wilbur's seasonal favorite, lemonade nectarine. Pie addicts with patience can order direct from the website or get a taste pronto at D'licious Dishes or Bertha's Café.
This is the little restaurant that could.Amid a sour economy — and even in the middle of the summer slowdown — this is the place that had locals buzzing on Twitter, Facebook, and good old-fashioned word of mouth in 2010.The excitement started with a trifecta: rustic, comforting American eats by chef-owner Charleen Badman; cozy, bustling atmosphere; and rock star treatment for regulars and newbies alike, courtesy of co-owners Pavle Milic and his wife Emily Pullen. Soon, the Stetson Drive gin joint became the Valley's go-to place for top-notch Arizona wines (still a rarity — but not for long, we predict, thanks to Milic's pioneering efforts) and affordable late-night eats as well. Comforting dishes like braised leeks with mozzarella and fried egg, and perfectly crispy jidori chicken have come and gone with the seasons, but Badman has only continued to delight us with new dishes along the way. Cheers to a new classic in the middle of Old Town.
It's hard to imagine that the area near this stretch of East Phoenix used to be the country's biggest cattle feedlot, but a visit to The Stockyards — situated in what was once the Tovrea Land and Cattle Company's administrative offices — can take you back in time to an era when ranching was still a big part of the local culture, and the city's movers and shakers did business over hefty steaks and stiff cocktails. Meat and potatoes is still the name of the game here, with exotica like elk and demurely named "calf fries" supplementing steaks, burgers, salads, and seafood dishes. Settle into a big booth, ogle the cowboy-themed paintings and branding iron chandelier, and enjoy a reminder of when the West was still Western.
Sometimes, you just need a little steak. Other times, you just need a lot of steak. When heaps of beef are what you're after — and you've got the cash — there's no better meal than Durant's 48-ounce porterhouse. Plain on the outside, fancy-pants on the inside, Durant's is a Phoenix institution that's hosted powerful politicos, celebrities, and mobsters alike. Nestled menacingly amidst the sparse yet solid menu of savory steaks and classic cocktails, this massive meal waits to take on all challengers. A slab of meat that would be appropriate to serve your pet velociraptor, this steak's part filet mignon, part New York strip, and all delicious. Order the steak however you want — from blue to well done — and the kitchen magicians will cook it to perfection. That's no small task with a cut that's a good three inches thick. Finish it and you'll be inducted into the illustrious Porterhouse Club, your name engraved on a brass plate affixed to one of several polished wooden plaques that adorn the restaurant's walls. The storied restaurant began offering the 48-ounce Porterhouse Challenge in 1996 and has since racked up a pantheon of more than 1,200 victorious eaters. At $83.25, the 48-ounce Porterhouse isn't for the faint-hearted. But if you've got the money — and the stomach — Durant's won't disappoint.
San Felipe's Cantina is known for many things: decent guacamole, dangerously cheap shots of liquor and draft beer, obnoxious clientele. What it should be known for, however, is the El Gordito Burrito. Also known as "the Fat One," the El Gordito is a big-ass taco de harina made with chicken or steak, rice, beans, and cheese, all wrapped in a tortilla the size of a manhole cover and covered with spicy sauce and melted cheese. If you eat it all in one sitting, San Felipe's will throw you a party and give you a T-shirt — size XXL, of course.Tipping the scales at close to seven pounds, this burrito's a scary bastard. But at only $19.95, you can't afford not to buy it — that's less than $3 per pound! Whether you attempt to eat it all at once or take it home and feed yourself for a week, there's no place around where you're going to find a burrito that gives you more bang for your buck.
When Matt and Courtney Diamond opened their bangin' little "ale house" in a Seventh Street bungalow, it wasn't enough to have a great list of regional craft beers and quaffable, affordable wines. They came up with some scrumptious eats, too, the most beer-friendly of them all being the Coronado Coney, named after the historic district where the restaurant is situated. This is one top dog, a plump, juicy all-beef frank from Schreiner's Sausage, a local institution right up the street. It's tucked into a soft, dense sourdough bun that's lightly toasted, slathered with Humboldt Brown Ale mustard, and sprinkled with red onion. Which really makes the dish — the wiener or the bun? Who knows. It's a good conundrum to ponder over another pint of IPA.
You gotta love a place where the hot wings come with an "order at your own risk" warning. It's no joke, either. Teakwoods' "hot" is truly that, while the "suicide" sauce takes some culinary masochism to enjoy. (We know, this is just what wings fanatics are obsessed with.) Even done up with more mild-mannered sauces (mild, honey BBQ, etc.), these golden fried beauties are so craveable — crispy, perfectly seasoned, and juicy on the inside. Like variety? It's worth the extra buck an order for two special flavors: the Jess Jess, medium sauce embellished with garlic and blue cheese, and El Heffe, mild sauce with cilantro, garlic, and a dab of "suicide." Dee-lish.
This laid-back, classy Irish pub is one of our favorite drinking destinations, but we've learned the hard way not to show up without an appetite. Why? Because even though a Guinness is a meal in a glass, it can't compare to a plate of Rúla Búla's fabulous fish 'n' chips. We can't watch someone else devour this pub classic without some serious food envy. We have to have it. So nowadays, we just plan on making a night out of it so we can get our fill of thick cod fillets dipped in beer batter and fried until crispy, golden, and light. Can fish be juicy? Amazingly, it can when it gets this rock star treatment. Teamed with homemade tartar sauce and chips that are crisp but still fluffy and potatoey inside, this amounts to some of the finest comfort food around.
Executive chef Matthew McLinn has fine dining and an upscale steakhouse on his résumé, and now he's doing burgers that are just as sophisticated — like steak on a bun. Recently, even Bon Appetit gave a nod to his juicy creations. What makes the difference? Using premium, hormone-free meat and organic ingredients, sizzling the burgers in a special coal-fired oven that sears the meat with 1,000-degree temps, and dressing them up with delicious, creative toppings. Housemade steak sauce on the Steak House BLT makes that burger as good as any you'll find at this city's top chop houses, while candied jalapeños, fried ratatouille, and watercress make the Sweet and Spicy burger another stellar choice. These burgers are pure, carnivorous bliss.
We didn't set out to become French fry addicts at an actual French restaurant — it happened somewhat unexpectedly. One night, we craved mussels, so we tried the moules frites, with mussels in thyme-scented white wine broth and a small bucket of pommes frites. Before long, we surprised ourselves at how quickly we gobbled up those perfectly crispy slivers of tater. Another time, it was hanger steak that sounded good and, sure enough, the meat was accompanied by another bucket o' frites. Yeah, it was a tasty steak, but the fries were the star of the table. So we get it — this side is as good as any main dish at Metro. We order them with just about anything now (even a salad — so much for being healthy!). They go well with wine, with a cocktail, with good friends, or just all by themselves, for no reason in particular. It's all about the simple pleasures, you know?
One word of advice: Go before you're ravenous.The thing about dim sum is that you have to show up when everybody else in town does if you want to get the best, freshest selection of dishes.That means weekends are prime time at Phoenix Palace, when Asian families mob the place to gather at big tables and fill their lazy Susans with plate after plate of Cantonese specialties. Don't be surprised if servers pushing carts of food stop by your table before you've hardly sat down — they'll keep the food coming until you're aching for mercy. There's pork galore (steamed char siu bao filled with barbecue pork, dumplings filled with pork, and plenty of other treats), spicy chicken feet flecked with chile, turnip cake, shrimp-filled siu mai, translucent rice noodles wrapped around strips of golden pastry, spare ribs, and congee. That's just a tiny sample, but you get the picture. Go early, go hungry, and leave happy.
The chef here really is a magician, transforming a hunk of dough into made-to-order, hand-pulled noodles with a series of dramatic spins and stretches. Before long, his fingers are laced with fine strands that end up in any number of soups, pan-fried dishes, and other entrées. And the best part (aside from eating them)? It's watching him work his craft from the comfort of the dining room, where a big glass window lets you look right into the kitchen.Prepared in the style of northwestern China's Langzhou region, these noodles come in several varieties, including thin, thick, wide, vegetable, and shaved. We're fond of the spicy beef noodles with XO sauce, but China Magic's lamb noodle soup comes in a close second. Every bite is tender and toothsome — and since eating handmade noodles here, we've become pretty spoiled. Luckily, we have no shortage of hungry friends who'll join us out of sheer curiosity.
How fresh is the sushi at Hana? Well, let's just say we've made the acquaintance of our ama-ebi before the beauties met their demise at the hands of chef Rick "Koji" Hashimoto. We've watched him carve up large sections of tuna, tail and fins still attached. And we've gotten a chance to say sayonara to whole fish that had been swimming just before dinnertime. Hana's specials board is always scribbled up with must-haves like abalone, ankimo (monkfish liver), or aji (Spanish mackerel), and they always show up at the table looking so picture-perfect that we hesitate just a split second before gobbling them all up. Order enough goodies and you might even get your very own sushi boat, complete with a tiny flaming sugar cube.
With its mesmerizing conveyor belt of sushi circling the counter, Teharu has a way of hypnotizing us. Somehow, we lose all self-control when plates of spicy tuna roll, salmon nigiri, and creative makizushi pass before our eyes. Before long, the plates start stacking up. Get the beer and sake flowing, and we're really in the zone. Luckily for us, they charge you by the plate, and it never amounts to much. Every time the bill comes, we still get a little surprised, even though we know Teharu's an incredible bang for the buck.
Truffle-infused filet mignon, steamed mussels with Spanish chorizo, and seductive duck confit are just a few of the appealing creations that chef Christopher Gross and his kitchen team crank out night after night at this sleek, stylish Biltmore eatery, but there's one thing worthy of special props: the sous vide roasted foie gras. Rich, impossibly luscious "meat butter" is always on the menu here, even though protesters routinely picket the place. Yep, Christopher's is a perennial target, but that only makes us love this foie even more.
The place with the best seafood in town doesn't bill itself as a seafood restaurant at all, but simply as a well-rounded contemporary American fine-dining spot with touches of international flair. No matter. Nobody else in these parts serves seafood from elite purveyor Ingrid Bengis (known for supplying Maine lobster and halibut to luminaries like Thomas Keller). Hungry for a buttery lobster roll? They dedicate every Wednesday at Noca to a gourmet version of the classic coastal nosh. Seafood dishes are usually the stars of the menu, and in the summer, don't be surprised to see king salmon shipped to one of the cooks from her family's Alaska fishery. Noca's always a good catch.
It may seem crazy that one tiny shop — which has picnic-style outdoor seating only and features just four sandwiches — could be such a heavyweight in this category. But the chef-owner is the celebrated Chris Bianco, which means this is bread from the same guy who turned Phoenix into a pizza mecca. Simple mozzarella, tomato, and basil never tasted so good, and neither did tuna salad (here, it tasted vibrant with lemon juice, Gaeta olives, and red onion). Top-notch sopressata, layered with roasted red peppers and flavorful aged provolone, amounts to one badass Italian sandwich. And every day, the market sandwich brings something wonderful, whether it's wood-roasted lamb with escarole or bresaola with arugula. Simple things make us happy at Pane Bianco.
Talk about a blast from the past. Local institution Stan's Metro Deli — which closed its doors in 1998 — made a comeback this year in a spot that's not far from where Stan Stone opened his original Tempe location. Now, his son Keith and business partner Sharon Fenderson continue the legacy with this friendly hangout that serves such classic New York deli-style fare as Reuben sandwiches stuffed two inches thick with pastrami or corned beef, matzo ball soup, potato pancakes, burgers, and all kinds of hearty breakfast food (including fat, chewy bagels from New York Bagels 'n Bialys). As expected, the place does a brisk lunch business and, better yet, it's a major new player in the late-night arena. Can you think of anywhere else to grab a bite up until 2 a.m. or later? Neither can we.
Crazy, island-style hot dogs and bratwurst served out of a funky surfer shack on Indian School Road have become our latest obsession. And although Maui Dog is just a humble little indie eatery, we wish we could find this on every street corner in town. What makes it so darn tasty? It's hard to explain how savory, juicy wieners go so well with garlicky, seasoned mayo, tropical fruit relish, passion fruit-flavored mustard, and other fresh toppings, but the idea just works. Just as good are the Maui Sliders (also adorned with intriguing toppings), the Maui Spam Slider (they'd have no island cred if they neglected the prized canned meat), and Hawaiian shaved ice in a rainbow of tropical fruit flavors. You can get in and out of Maui Dog in a flash, well fed, and with hardly a dent in your wallet. That's fast food we can embrace.
What's not to love about a chef with skills and a sense of humor? Payton Curry has become Caffe Boa's biggest asset, a guy with the courage to take a classic, all-American favorite — fried chicken — and make it better. That he did, all right, and he even dubbed it Payt-N-Bake Fried Chicken, just so nobody forgets who came up with such a succulent dish. He uses 10-day-cured, all-dark meat, free-range bird, and then uses a secret weapon for extra crispiness: duck fat. You heard it right. It takes a duck to bring the best out of chicken. Who knew?
It's not the primo location on Gilbert Road that keeps us coming back to Joe's Real BBQ. It's not the old-fashioned charm of this 1929 building, decorated with '40s-era Arizona ephemera, or even the dapper style of hat-loving founder Joe Johnston, who's become a local foodie icon. As much as we'd like to say there's something unfair about the appeal of this place, our love for Joe's all comes down to the scrumptious food — and, in particular, the impeccable pulled pork. Heady with the aroma of pecan smoke, and beyond tender from a low-and-slow cooking technique, this pulled pork was plucked straight out of our carnivorous dreams.
This little piggy went to market. This little piggy stayed at home. This little piggy went "wee, wee, wee" as he roasted on a spit. Pig roasts aren't just for luaus — we've spotted swine smoking on the grill at fancy hotel restaurants and catered holiday events. But the best place to score the whole hog year-round is McReynolds Farms. Topper and Barbara McReynolds started raising pigs for slaughter in 1984, eventually turning the business over to their son, Thomas. McReynolds Farms now offers DIY pig kits for the serious backyard BBQer and event catering that includes a cooked piggy and three sides. Catering will set you back a mere $12 a plate for a 75-person wedding. Roasting pigs start at $185 for a small 25-pounder and will feed about one person per pound; suckling pigs are slightly cheaper, but the meat won't stretch as far. If you're willing to throw Porky on the fire yourself and watch him burn, McReynolds will even rent you a fancy rotisserie and provide the BBQ sauce to top him off with. Soo-weet!
It's been open barely a year, but Bryan's Black Mountain Barbecue already has an excellent reputation among aficionados of smoked meat. Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Bryan Dooley left the swank Scottsdale restaurant he'd been working at to barbecue full time, and his training is evident across the just-a-tiny-bit-upscale-for-a-BBQ-joint menu. Witness the olive slaw and vegetarian-friendly pulled squash. Still, it's one of the Big Four traditional barbecue meats that'll draw us to Cave Creek time and time again. Simply put: The brisket is unmatched. And, yeah, we've had pretty much every smoked brisket the Valley has to offer — even that little joint your cousin from Alabama loves — and we're confident saying, unequivocally, that Bryan's is the best. The restaurant's Texas-style take on the meat is appreciated, considering all the joints you'll see chopping and saucing it up around here. The decadently smoky bark is a treat unto itself, but it's the way the brisket falls apart at the slightest brush of a fork that proves any doubters wrong.
We don't go to barbecue restaurants for sauce. Nope, it's the meat we want — juicy, smoky, tender meat. Still, if we were to select a local barbecue joint's sauce for bottling, we'd have no trouble picking. We're not exactly sure what the secret ingredient in Honey Bear's thin but sticky sauce might be, but whatever it is, it's mighty addicting. There's no flavor in town quite like it — sweet but tangy in that way so many foods are advertised and so few actually are. We hurriedly pump the stuff out of the condiment dispenser as fast as a kid trying to fix his bicycle tire to catch up to his friends, and we've been known to coat everything from corn to salad in it. Actually, it's sometimes tempting to try a few dabs on Honey Bear's famous peach cobbler, though we've thus far resisted.
What's up with the quirky name of this restaurant? It's all about eating on your honor. You see, the folks at Mrs. White's aren't keeping tabs on your order, at least in the form of a check. Nor are they even handing you a menu when you sit down to eat. The list of scrumptious options is scribbled all over the walls — to-die-for fried catfish, greens, and grits among them. (You'll want to try it all once you get a taste of it.) Go ahead and splurge, but keep mental notes, because when you leave, you'll have to tell the cashier what you had. Sounds crazy, but this place has been successfully satisfying hungry souls for years.
You never know what chef Greg LaPrad is going to cook up at Quiessence. This tiny, romantic spot — nestled in a surprisingly lush part of town, at the back of the Farm at South Mountain — is all about eating seasonally, with a menu that changes from day to day based on what local produce LaPrad has sourced. (The selection of housemade salumi, one of his signatures, varies as well but can always be found on the menu — and it's a must-try.) His sophisticated but unpretentious American cuisine has even caught the attention of the folks at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City, where LaPrad was recently invited to show the Big Apple why he's a big deal in Arizona. We're proud to say we've been fans from the get-go.
This past year has been a busy one for Sima and Marcellino Verzino. The dynamic husband-and-wife team left their longtime digs on Northern Avenue in Phoenix (a humble strip mall that made discovering Marcellino's incredible Italian cuisine all the more delightful) for a much swankier setting on Scottsdale's Stetson Drive, at SouthBridge. Finally, the atmosphere really matches the caliber of the food. Unlike some well-known chefs in the Valley, chef Marcellino is a fixture in his own kitchen, and it shows in jaw-dropping dishes like handmade squid ink pasta in a lightly spicy fresh tomato sauce, brimming with mussels, clams, and half a lobster. Sure, this place is one of the biggest splurges around, but well worth it.
Part Italian deli and part casual Italian eatery, Andreoli Italian Grocer does double duty with panache. Owner Giovanni Scorzo has stocked the shelves and deli counter with plenty of tempting imported goods, but better yet, he's crafted an impressive selection of housemade breads, cheeses, salami, and sausage, so you know your panino is as fresh as can be. Memorable antipasti and salads such as fried potatoes and leeks, marinated grilled calamari, bresaola with shaved Parmesan and arugula, and creamy homemade mozzarella with tomato and basil are fun to nibble on any time of day (join the regular crowd of Italians in the lively dining room), while daily specials like vitello tonnato and handmade pastas are perfect for a casual but substantial dinner.
As the stereotypical upscale steakhouse goes completely masculine, from the ambiance to the unabashedly carnivorous menu, BLT Steak seduces in a different way, with a luxurious, varied, and French-inspired menu, as well as a surprisingly urban atmosphere (given the restaurant's location at the serenely gorgeous desert resort Camelback Inn). It makes perfect sense, though, when you learn that award-winning French chef Laurent Tourondel — who owns world-class restaurants in several metropolises — is the creative spirit behind the operation. So, yes, there are exquisite steaks, served with a choice of luscious sauces. But there are also dishes like sautéed Dover sole, juicy veal chops, and tuna tartare, giving us even more reasons to joyfully blow our budget at this fabulous joint.
The past few years have seen a serious proliferation of steak houses across the Valley, each one with a different take on enjoying a good hunk of animal flesh. It's certainly fun to try them out as if we were trying on different outfits, but when a perfect New York strip and a martini are what suit us, we head to Durant's for the vintage vibe, where we're surrounded by red velvet wallpaper and lavish flower arrangements. Cozied up in the lounge slurping oysters or hanging out in one of the big booths feasting on shrimp cocktail, we feel stylish in such a timeless way. Durant's may be old school, but it'll never get old.
Seems there's always a European vacation gnawing at the back of our mind, but the reality of hopping the pond is usually a pipe dream. Good thing we can indulge in our Francophile fantasies at Zinc Bistro anytime we want. It's like a tiny patch of Paris planted in our own backyard, complete with a chic dining room, a see-and-be-seen patio that wraps around the side, and thoughtfully prepared French bistro cuisine. Delicate salads and fresh, briny oysters, flat iron steak with frites, braised lamb shank, and a lusty chocolate soufflé — there's never really a time when we're not hungry for all this and more.
We're probably not fooling anyone — our pick for "Best Puerto Rican" is, as of press time, also the only place for Puerto Rican. Yet it's no less deserving of the honor. Owner Jaime Acevedo brings his Puerto Rican heritage to the Valley via New York City, which is evident from the Yankees jerseys and memorabilia on the walls at this pint-size strip mall nook. And like the best Puerto Rican neighborhood joints in Nueva York, El Coquito dishes up island soul food like stick-to-your-ribs mofongo (mashed fried plantains topped with meat), slow-roasted pork, and an assortment of such deep-fried cuchifritos as bacalaitos (crispy salted cod, best eaten with a squeeze of lemon) and relleno de papa (mashed potato balls filled with ground beef). The food's delightful enough, but if you really want to have a fiesta, bring your own booze. The velvety coconut coquito drink is heavenly with a shot of rum.
We've been in love with Guru Palace since we first set eyes on a luscious bowl of chicken tikka masala here, with moist chunks of meat soaked in buttery, tomato-ginger gravy. Even after we'd eaten the chicken, we couldn't resist spooning more of that tasty sauce over a steaming scoop of basmati rice. Turns out, everything at Guru Palace is just as enticing as that first dish we tried. Guru Palace specializes in Northern Indian cuisine, which means excellent marinated meat specialties and several kinds of bread (naan, paratha, kulcha) cooked in the tandoor, a special clay oven. The array of vegetarian dishes is impressive, although there are just as many interesting meat and seafood options, including lamb done up a half-dozen ways. This "palace" may be located in a strip mall, but it still gives you the royal treatment.
So what if this restaurant is really just a lunch counter and a handful of tables sectioned off from a Middle Eastern grocery store? That doesn't make Al-Hana — located inside of Baiz Market, next to the cash registers — any less delightful. Consider the open kitchen, where you can see white-clad cooks slice your succulent chicken shawarma right off the rotating spit, dunk falafel in the fryer, or pull a tray of hot, fresh pita right out of the oven before one lands on your plate. From the creamy, lip-smacking hummus and juicy shish taook (marinated chicken) to buttery, gooey knafeh (a dessert of melted cheese beneath a buttery crust, drizzled with sugary syrup and sprinkled with pistachios), everything here is as fresh as can be. We recommend doing your eating before you go shopping, lest you go completely overboard in the aisles.
Our favorite Korean restaurant distinguishes itself in more ways than one. The food's amazing, of course, and the service is downright jovial — we always feel welcome at this homey spot. Just as appealing is the atmosphere, which draws groups of Korean families and hungry businessmen alike. We're hooked on the wonderful smell of sizzling meat here, which gets our stomachs rumbling for juicy kalbi (beef short ribs), bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef), buttery pork belly, chicken, and shrimp. Although we're quite familiar with this interactive, cook-it-yourself way of dining, it's always comforting when the helpful staff stops by to keep an eye on things and make sure the cold beer's flowing. Dinner at Takamatsu is a guaranteed way to forget about the world and just enjoy the moment.
When all our Japanese friends started telling us Sushi Ken was their favorite place in town, we wasted no time in heading down to Ahwatukee for a sushi fix. Sure enough, the sushi here is great, but there's so much more to the menu that makes us happy. From savory ramen noodle soup that satisfies with its complex broth to tempura and crispy tonkatsu pork, Sushi Ken covers all the bases and keeps it real. This is straightforward, family-style eating just like you'd find in Japan, right down to the desserts (mitsumame, a cold, sweet jelly served with fruit, is a rarity in Phoenix, but they have it here). The only thing that could make this place better would be to pick it up and plunk it down right next to our house.
It can feel overwhelming to peruse Da Vang's menu for the first time — so many choices, so little time. (Thank goodness it's numbered!) But don't worry, because everything at this humble hole-in-the-wall is just what you're craving if you love authentic Vietnamese eats. Sip on a refreshing da chanh (limeade) or a jolt-inducing ca phe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk), and enjoy a generous, steaming bowl of pho chock full of sliced beef, brisket, tendon, tripe, and tender rice vermicelli; a hot, seafood-laden crepe (banh xeo); or some tasty barbecued pork fashioned into a baguette sandwich (banh mi). You'll leave well fed for just a few bucks — good incentive to come back frequently.
The Valley's best place to fill up on authentic Chinese cuisine also happens to be a very modest storefront with a no-frills little dining room. Although you won't find lavish furnishings fit for an emperor at Asian Cafe Express, you will find a very glorious feast. Chef-owner Michael Leung's excellent sauces are the highlight of many dishes, and his pan-fried noodles have that perfect tinge of smokiness. He does vegetables with finesse and transforms seafood into even more of a delicacy than it already is in its natural state. There's so much to choose from — dumplings, stews, stir-fries, and more. The Valley may not have a Chinatown, but at least there's a restaurant that brings that level of Chinese culinary prowess to the masses here.
First things first: How do they define their "Thai hot"? Here, at Thai E-San — which opened in CenPho earlier this year — even the medium is pretty tongue-searing. These folks mean business, from the taste of their curries. Sausage stuffed with ground pork and pork skin is an intriguing and uncommon dish, while the coconut soup takes a Thai restaurant standard and does it up right, with plenty of aromatic herbs. Masamun curry with roast duck, whole deep-fried bass with ginger, and spicy squid salad are a few more good picks among an exhaustive menu of stir-fries, noodles, curries, and fried rice dishes. And although barbecued Thai chicken may not sound very interesting, do try the house special marinated chicken, grilled to juicy perfection. You'll want to gnaw on the bones.
Why in the world did we ever think veganism was kind of gloomy? At Chakra 4, the healthful vegan menu is the most vibrant rainbow of food we've ever seen. Chopped salads with orange carrot, purple cabbage, green cilantro, yellow pepper, and ruby tomato, sandwiches stuffed with flavorful housemade hummus and an array of vegetables, and soups and stews brimming with colorful veggies and grains — it's uplifting just to look at it, let alone taste it. And the flavors are just as bright, so scrumptious that we usually stuff ourselves silly here. The fact that there's no meat or animal products in any of it only justifies our urge to shovel all this goodness down our gullet and then order some of those dark chocolate vegan bonbons in the display case. Naughty but nice.
More than 100 items, packed into a colorful menu supplemented with photos, facts, and descriptions, make choosing dishes a delightful challenge at this tasteful Southern Indian restaurant in Chandler. You won't miss meat one bit when faced with such an array of savory chaat snacks, naan and other breads, deep-fried chickpea patties, fragrantly spiced vegetable stews, and jaw-dropping dosai, crispy, paper-thin crepes with delicious fillings. Vegetarian cuisine doesn't get much heartier than this.
Things took a strange turn this past year for Phoenix's most famous chef, Chris Bianco. Seemingly an eternal fixture at the wood-burning oven that's the centerpiece of his Heritage Square eatery — where locals line up along with pizza pilgrims from across the country — he had to stop making pizzas when his asthma worsened and his doctor told him that he couldn't be exposed to the wood smoke any longer. So nowadays, you'll see Bianco at the front of the house or, perhaps, at Bar Bianco next door, keeping an eye on things while his loyal staff continues to make pies exactly the way he taught them. The wait for a table is just as long as ever and, yes, the pizza's just as craveable.
At most pizza joints, a slice usually adds up to a snack — we'll take two or three to make a meal. But Jimmy & Joe's lives up to its "serious slices" tagline with jaw-dropping pieces of New York-style pizza so big that each one is served on its own individual pan, with its own pizza cutter to boot. The crust is chewy and blistered around the edges, thin and crisp in the middle, and sturdy enough to deliver heaps of toppings straight from the plate to your mouth. Try the aptly named Carnivore (with salami, pepperoni, ham, sausage, and meatball), the spicy Buffalo Chicken, or, really, anything that's hot out of the oven.
Just outside the downtown orbit, Cibo is truly tucked into a residential neighborhood, bringing energy to a beautifully restored historic 1913 bungalow at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Fillmore Street. Outside, the lush front yard is filled with umbrella tables and twinkling lights, while the interior is packed with cozy tables, cheerful artwork, and a fabulous bar area where it's fun to sip Chianti as you wait to nosh on chef Guido Saccone's wood-fired pizzas, lavish antipasto plates, and seductive crepes. Owners Tony and Karen Martingiglio and Michael Krassner are always on hand, too, making customers feel as welcome as family. Indeed, we do feel quite at home here.
The first time we found Amano Pizza Bistro, we had to do a double take. Is this really what we think it is — a bustling, hip hangout — located near nothing in particular on a quiet stretch of Baseline Road? It's strange, but whenever we walk inside this family-owned spot, we're pleased to see it so busy. Here, the aroma of hot, bubbling pizzas fills the air and gets our tummies rumbling before we even catch a glimpse of a pie headed our way. Which grabs us more — the lusty white pizza with garlic, olive oil, basil, Romano, and mozzarella, or the bold combination of Italian sausage, caramelized fennel, roasted red peppers, and Fontina? We'll never know, because we'll go for both and take home extra. Nobody at our house has ever complained about leftovers from here.
Yeah, yeah, Guy Fieri made his mark here (literally, with a stencil on the wall), but we didn't need the extroverted Food Network personality to tell us how good La Piazza is. The proof is simply in the pies, hand-tossed Neapolitan beauties that chef-owner Justin Piazza bakes in his roaring wood-fired oven. From the meat-laden Italian Stallion (covered in pepperoni, proscuitto, sausage, sopressata, San Marzano tomatoes, and housemade mozzarella) to the wonderfully garlicky Pizza Bianca, these hot, crisp creations are real crowd pleasers.
After all these years — and a mini-empire of restaurants in the Valley — Nello's still satisfies us when we want to hang out and enjoy some great pizza with a gang of friends or family. We love how there's something for everyone at this cheerful, bustling spot. There's a choice of crust (pan-style and thin crust) in the build-your-own pizza, along with traditional pies heaped with homemade sausage or pepperoni; rustic, Mediterranean pizzas with an olive oil and butter base (including an amazing white pizza with pesto); vegetarian creations; specialty pies topped with chicken; and even crab pizzas. (The garlicky, buttery Popeye Pizza, with crab, spinach, and lemon slices, is an example of the creativity here.) If you can't find something to love out of so many options, you're just not into pizza, buddy.
With pizza this good, they oughta be cocky. Humble Pie stays true to its name, though, quietly cranking out unique, mouthwatering pizzas for its loyal following. Basic creations such as the margherita and Sicilian sausage are as good as any you'll find, and creative pies topped with such combinations as shrimp with housemade mozzarella, lemon zest, fresh basil, herb oil, and chili flakes are the real reason we like to hang out here. Humble Pie satisfies a craving that most pizzerias just can't.
Buried in a strip mall so deeply that you can hardly see it even when you know where to look, Classic Italian Pizza has always had an aura of mystery. It's a bit of a pain to find, sure, but can you imagine how packed this place would be if it were any more accessible? Selfishly, we're glad about it. It just means we're a little closer to instant gratification when it comes to primo wood-fired pizzas, whose thin, lightly charred crusts are both crispy and delicately chewy. Toppings steer clear of novelty and stick to tradition, although deliciously so. Try the homemade pork sausage with wood-roasted mushrooms, onions, peppers, mozzarella, and tomato sauce, or enjoy a simple combo of mozzarella, garlic, and fresh basil. They don't call it "Classic" for nothing.
As of press time, James Beard Award-winning chef Nobuo Fukuda's brand-new izakaya (Japanese-style tavern) is the hot ticket in the Phoenix culinary scene, set inside a beautifully renovated historic bungalow built in 1899. As if Fukuda's reputation as the Valley's premier Japanese chef weren't enough of a draw (his cult of devotees remains strong from his days at the now-defunct Sea Saw), he's created a cozy, welcoming space that happens to be right across from another James Beard winner's legendary restaurant: Chris Bianco's celebrated pizzeria. But while Pizzeria Bianco is inevitably a night on the town (lengthy wait included), Nobuo at Teeter House aims to bring you in for a simple lunch, a casual nosh with a cocktail, or a relaxed dinner of shareable small plates like house-cured salmon with basil oil and pecorino Romano, braised pork belly tucked into soft, steamed buns, warm duck salad with yuzu vinaigrette, and okonomiyaki, a scrumptious seafood pancake topped with sticky-sweet sauce, Japanese mayo, dried aonori seaweed, and shaved dried bonito (a beloved street food that goes well with beer). If you need proof that downtown's on the upswing, Fukuda's move from Scottsdale to here makes a very strong case for the future.
In many ways, chef Kevin Binkley's namesake restaurant turns traditional fine dining upside down. From the humble storefront on Cave Creek Road to the cozy, unpretentious atmosphere, there's nothing stuffy about this place, and there's certainly not an uptight dress code. Nope, the emphasis here is simply the beauty of heirloom produce at its peak of ripeness, luxurious ingredients like lobster, foie gras, and truffles, and Binkley's own distinctive cooking style, which combines impeccable French techniques with a touch of creative whimsy. Although the menu is coursed out as appetizers and entrées, the best way to experience this cutting-edge cuisine is with the customizable, multi-course tasting menus, which are served with a barrage of clever amuses bouches and palate cleansers. Anyone food-obsessed would be thrilled with an experience here.
Where do all the beautiful people go? Where are the city's movers and shakers — politicians, academics, design geeks, DJs — feeding their fabulous faces, watching each other, and maybe even getting tipsy? They're hanging out at St. Francis, apparently, from the looks of the always-busy dining room. If you consider yourself even remotely connected, then be prepared to run into somebody at chef-owner Aaron Chamberlin's stunning restaurant near the intersection of Central and Camelback. With an upbeat indie rock soundtrack, a stunning building renovated by architect Wendell Burnett, and affordable, comforting eats like pot roast, pork chile verde with cornbread, scrumptious flatbreads with different seasonal toppings, and sticky toffee pudding for dessert, it's no wonder that St. Francis is such a happening place.
Tempe may be worlds away from cow country, but farm-fresh cheese is closer than you'd expect. Milk from around the state is trucked to the United Dairymen of Arizona processing plant daily to be pasteurized and packaged, and the leftovers are turned into tasty cheese that's sold on site in the Milk 'n' More Store. The store's crowning glory is its cheese curds, the traditional Midwest snack that squeaks in your mouth like a chew toy. How's it made? Milk from the plant is dumped into 7,000-gallon vats and mixed with rennet. The solidifying cheese is then gathered out of the mixture with a rake and cut into bite-size pieces. Milk 'n' More's curds are made daily in plain and jalapeño varieties. If they get stale a few days after opening, just pop 'em briefly in the microwave and you'll have a soft, cheesy treat that doesn't need to be fried to taste good.
The streets of Phoenix feel a little bit more like Paris thanks to the folks behind Truckin' Good Food, a mobile creperie that makes the rounds at local farmers markets in downtown Phoenix, Mesa, Scottsdale, and Ahwatukee. (Check the website or Twitter for the lowdown on the current route.) What we love about Truckin' Good Food is the quality of the ingredients (ham from local purveyors The Meat Shop, cheese from Crow's Dairy) and the rotating menu. It's hard to go wrong with Nutella, banana, and spiced walnuts, or seasonal fruit with granola and honey. Likewise, the savory crepes are killer — try the "Old Country," with San Marzano tomatoes, tapenade, feta, and herbs, and the "Ham It Up," with ham, cheddar, honey Dijon mustard, and herbs. Thanks to Truckin' Good Food, the local food truck scene is on a roll!
The benefits of buying organic are plentiful, but we're often disappointed by small tomatoes or wilted greens. Thankfully, we can rely on McClendon's Select to offer up something ripe and gorgeous, whether it's crisp arugula or the plump, fragrant pink grapefruit we bought during this year's citrus season. Everything grown on the 25-acre family farm is now organic, a switch owner and pharmacist Bob McClendon made in the early '00s. Their juicy dates, delicious honey, and fresh fruits and vegetables speak for themselves, but if you have any doubt of their quality, chefs such as Kevin Binkley, Chryssa Robertson of Rancho Pinot, and Eugenia Theodosopoulos of Essence Bakery Café have been spotted using his products to create gourmet meals.
Since Tempe's Gentle Strength Co-op bit the dust a few years ago, we've had to get creative to find cheap produce. Good thing we stumbled upon Bountiful Baskets, a volunteer-run service that offers produce at less than dollar-store prices. It's quick and easy — just pre-order a basket online for $15 ($25 for organic) and pick up your fruits and veggies at one of the listed sites. We love their concept of mystery baskets, which force buyers to try foods they might not otherwise eat, like pygmy pineapples and rainbow chard. The fruits and veggies need to be washed well before eating, as they come in their natural state. Otherwise, the biggest problem with the baskets is how much food you get. We say invite a few friends over and share, or have an Iron Chef-style throwdown with those pygmy pineapples as the secret ingredient.
Best New Farmers Market, West Valley
Momma's Organic Market at Park West
Once a month on Saturdays from September through April, the open-air outdoor area of the Park West shopping center is transformed into a fresh produce and local artisan heaven. Located west of Loop 101 on Northern, the west-side market stocks all sorts of beautiful fruits and veggies from Pinnacle Gardens and Crooked Sky Farms, a book exchange table, and live entertainment ranging from music to face painting. Hours for the monthly seasonal market are 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Momma's also holds it down during a weekly Thursday-night market (also from September to April) from 4 to 7 p.m.
Best New Farmers Market, East Valley
Thursday Night Market at Hayden Station Plaza
February 18 was a red-letter day for many folks in Tempe. On that day, the Thursday Night Market on Mill officially launched its weekly open-air market featuring locally made food and artsy products. Since then, the shindig has showcased a constant rotation of interesting vendors and products, such as Cortez Coffee, Udder Delights, pet treats by Sisters 3 Biscuits, and jewelry from Lucky Monkey Designs. The kid- and pet-friendly market, located steps away from the Mill Avenue and Third Street light-rail station, is open year-round every Thursday from 4:30 to 8 p.m.
You probably thought farmers markets were only about fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables. Ha! Think again, at least if you're at the Ahwatukee Farmers Market. While there are healthful foods to be found here, the balance of good versus evil has shifted to the dark chocolate side. Tucked between handcrafted jewelry and produce are vendors selling cookies, brownies, toffee, cupcakes, and crepes. We make the trip to the Ahwatukee market every week for locally made cheese and salad fixings, but somehow end up adding Hallie's Apple Butter and a few of Sherrye Chapin's Caramel Addiction Brownies to our reusable shopping bag. Trust us, once you get a sugar high going from all the samples they dish out, you'll forget all about your organic, healthful goody-goody diet.
Short of dedicated dog parks or your own street, there aren't many public places in Scottsdale that welcome pooches larger than a Gucci purse. That's why owners with four-footed pals in tow adore the Old Town Farmers Market, where Fido can walk the streets with his furry head held high. Water bowls are placed throughout the market, and several vendors offer homemade organic dog treats or toys. Once we even spotted Labradoodles for sale at Double Blessing's lotion and soap booth. But there was one product featured at the market this past spring that shows how dog-friendly this farmers market truly is: Bowser Beer, an alcoholic treat for dogs. If you want Spot to be man's best friend, forget the chew toys and rawhide bones. Stroll him over to the Scottsdale Old Town Farmers Market and buy him a cold one.
Tearing down the old Biltmore Grill and starting anew with Frank & Albert's was perhaps the Biltmore Resort's smartest move to get noticed in the local dining scene. In its previous incarnation, it was never much on anyone's radar, but now it's a restaurant for more than just a captive audience at the hotel. Savvy Phoenicians are getting to know Frank & Albert's for its contemporary take on Southwestern comfort food and just as much for its gorgeous patio. Sit out here, sip a prickly peartini, and bask in the glow of a fireplace and two fire pits that make the outdoor space feel cozy. With lush landscaping and the wide-open sky, it's our favorite spot for enjoying a meal al fresco. They even have tableside s'mores for a whimsical finish.
Without a doubt, the kind of brunch that really romances us is one where the food is better than run-of-the-mill breakfast, and the setting transports us to a different time and place. Such is the charm of brunch at Lon's, located at the historic Hermosa Inn. This is pure Southwestern beauty, inside and out — beautifully manicured desert grounds, and rustic but classy Southwestern décor in the dining room. The brunch menu features some seriously impressive dishes, from tasty brioche "monkey bread" (fresh out of the oven, with an irresistible cinnamon and pecan aroma) to perfect sliders made with beef tenderloin and scrambled eggs. Got a sweet tooth? Then don't miss the lemon ricotta pancakes, stacked like sculpture and gilded with huckleberry compote. Although we're glad brunch is available Saturday and Sunday, Lon's has live jazz only on Sundays. You know when to find us here.
The name only becomes more ironic as time goes by — Matt's Big Breakfast feels smaller with every new customer who discovers the place (often courtesy of The Food Network) and makes the wait here that much longer. But what's impressive is how the quality has stayed so consistent in spite of Matt's popularity. The from-scratch pancakes are still fluffy and perfect, the egg dishes are just as mouthwatering, and they still use quality local ingredients, from the citrus juice in your glass to the jam on your toast. At this point, the crowds will only get bigger.
Did somebody say chicken and waffles? Yeah, that'll get us right out of bed. You'll never need to twist our arm to start off the day with Lo-Lo's crispy, otherworldly fried chicken and a hot pile of waffles, but even if we weren't in the mood for that (impossible, honestly), there's still so much to love about this favorite local hangout. Ivan's chorizo and eggs, served with warm flour tortillas, gives a nod to that Southwestern spice that we're hooked on, while steak and eggs with hash browns hit the spot when we're craving an old-school breakfast. Factor in rich, creamy grits, chicken gizzards smothered in gravy, and perfect red velvet cake for dessert (oh, yes, we'll have dessert with breakfast when it's this good), and it's easy to see why Lo-Lo's really makes breakfast the most important meal of the day.
Just as you'd expect from a restaurant set among the historic buildings of Glendale's Catlin Court — literally, on the corner of 58th Avenue and Palmaire — Cee Cee's just oozes vintage charm, with wood floors, old-timey décor, and quirky antique retail to boot. Before we set out on a shopping adventure in the neighborhood, we like to fuel up with a hefty breakfast here. Chorizo and eggs are a good choice, as are the French toast and the covers-all-bases combo of ham, eggs, home fries, and toast. If you don't make it here until after 11 a.m., don't worry, slacker: the breakfast burrito, stuffed with potatoes, eggs, cheese, and either bacon or sausage, is available all day long.
It's a good thing that breakfast service at Liberty Market starts bright and early, at 7 a.m., because our cravings usually kick in as soon as we roll out of bed. What's waiting for us at Liberty Market? To eat, there are scrambled egg dishes, granola, fresh pastries, and don't-miss griddled bread pudding with espresso syrup (for a sugary boost). And for a tasty eye opener, try one of the expertly made coffee creations (try the potent cortadito, a "Cuban micro-latte") from Liberty's E-61 bar. Some days we dread getting up, but a visit to Liberty always puts a smile on our face.
There's a lot of seating at Crackers & Co., and the folks here seem to fill it with ease. That's just a sign of how good this spot really is. Strong coffee with abundant refills, perfectly cooked omelets, egg skillets heaped with savory ingredients and generous gobs of cheese, and all kinds of guilty-pleasure treats — scones, giant cinnamon rolls with cream cheese frosting, crepes, blintzes, and French toast — are just a few of the a.m. options that set Crackers apart from the competition. We could eat breakfast for any meal of the day if it were always as good as this.
How do the night owls of downtown Scottsdale manage to drag themselves out of bed and recoup the day after bar hopping, wee-hours eating, and dancing like there's no tomorrow? Their secret has to be a hidden-away Civic Center eatery called Orange Table, where the made-from-scratch breakfast could revive even the most hungover (or terribly hungry) customer with killer coffee drinks like the Mexican chocolate latte, lavish buttermilk pancakes, and savory stuff like fat omelets and "white flannel hash" — a.k.a. corned beef that's worth a "Best Of" unto itself. There's often a wait to get a table here, but we can't imagine starting our day any other way.
There's a first time for everything — even fine dining in a hair salon. Seriously, the Steven Paul Salon in Old Town Scottsdale is the unlikely venue for the creative efforts of chefs Brandon Crouser and Cullen Campbell, but we're not complaining. In fact, we think it's a laudable effort. By day, they offer a salad bar and open-face sandwiches to the pampered clients of the beauty mecca. By night, they cook exquisite, multi-course meals for in-the-know folks who appreciate polenta with figs and fegato grasso (a.k.a. foie gras), yellowtail stew, and a variety of raw seafood dishes that inspired the restaurant's name, including albacore with truffle, apples, and black garlic. It's as memorable as it is surprising.
So far, we haven't been feeling the so-called "gastropubs" that have shown up on the scene this year — they all seem like a trickle-down trend, inspired by something that blew up in other major cities (but not here) years ago. But you know what? The Roosevelt has been pretty much a gastropub all along, even though owner Matt Pool would never call it that. Technically, this place is a bar that serves food, not a straight-up restaurant. (You'll see what we mean if you attempt to dine here on a night when it's packed shoulder-to-shoulder and there's nowhere to sit.) But it's darn good if you do get to dig in. Gourmet hot dogs, an amazing hot pretzel with two kinds of mustard, homemade dips with chips, and wonderful tomato soup with a crispy grilled cheese — these all go well with the badass beers on the menu, but to be honest, we come here to eat even when drinking's not on the agenda.
Honestly, the fact that you can bring your own wine (or buy some at the adjoining wine shop) is not the biggest reason to check out Atlas. We'd still love this place even if we were teetotalers, because chefs Joshua Riesner and Keenan Bosworth are cooking up some very impressive contemporary American cuisine here. The menu changes all the time, putting organic farmer Bob McClendon's heirloom vegetables to good use with exquisite ingredients such as Sonoma veal sweetbreads, buffalo, pheasant, and Australian lamb. Housemade charcuterie, artisanal cheeses, and scrumptious seasonal desserts prove that these guys put care into the smallest details. And if you do have a bottle of wine that you've been saving for just the right time, dinner at Atlas is all the special occasion you'll need.
Honestly, the fact that you can bring your own wine (or buy some at the adjoining wine shop) is not the biggest reason to check out Atlas. We'd still love this place even if we were teetotalers, because chefs Joshua Riesner and Keenan Bosworth are cooking up some very impressive contemporary American cuisine here. The menu changes all the time, putting organic farmer Bob McClendon's heirloom vegetables to good use with exquisite ingredients such as Sonoma veal sweetbreads, buffalo, pheasant, and Australian lamb. Housemade charcuterie, artisanal cheeses, and scrumptious seasonal desserts prove that these guys put care into the smallest details. And if you do have a bottle of wine that you've been saving for just the right time, dinner at Atlas is all the special occasion you'll need.
Is it the bubbling bowl of molten cheese delivered to the table with soft hunks of bread, perfect for sparking conversation and a little dinnertime fun? Could it be your waiter flipping booze bottles behind the bar when he's not regaling you with drool-worthy food descriptions? Or is it perhaps the old-school performance art of a cook dousing hunks of beef with whiskey and flambé-ing them tableside as meaty juices drip onto a platter of rice? It's probably all of the above that makes Le Chalet a hell of a fun place to dine. And did we mention that they have TV screens showing someone in your kitchen making your crepe? Yep, that adds to the experience, too.
Sit at the long, gleaming counter at Posh, check your likes and dislikes on the unorthodox menu of ingredients, and settle in for a leisurely meal that's custom-made just for you. It sounds a heck of a lot like an omakase meal at a sushi bar, but this is something else — contemporary American cuisine with French influences (brûléed foie gras torchon) as well as Asian touches (raw bluefin tuna served three ways). Of course, it comes as no surprise to find out that chef-owner Joshua Hebert has worked in Japan and has brought back an appreciation for the way sushi chefs personalize the dining experience for each customer. Hang out at Posh's counter and you won't just see Hebert at work. You'll also get to meet the man behind the food.
What's the secret to success for this always-hoppin' winebar (which cloned itself last year, yet still has its mojo)? Somehow, the folks at Postino have found the sweet spot of style, service, and accessible food, whether you're talking a lively weekend brunch with friends, after-work vino and a bite, or a cozy, candlelit meal with a date. The selection of salads, bruschetta, cheeses, and sandwiches is simple but perfectly suited to go with one of the wines from the eclectic rotating menu; you can also buy by the bottle and take a little bit of the fun vibe home with you. Cheers to the good life at Postino.
Hitting the town with somebody new? Tasty eats like grilled asparagus with preserved lemon, delicious handmade pastas (we love the tagliatelle with speck, grilled radicchio, and pecorino crema), juicy burgers, and, of course, pizzas make this parlor a favorite for both lunch and dinner. Craft cocktails, beer, and wine keep conversation well lubricated, so to speak, and if it turns out that your date isn't all that interesting, there's plenty of fun people-watching in the dining room, outdoor patio, and bar area. You can't go wrong with The Parlor.
It doesn't matter whether it's a clear, starry night, a hazy pink sunset, or the middle of an electrical storm, there's no better place to dine and get an eyeful of the Valley than from J&G Steakhouse. Perched up at The Phoenician, facing south, celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's stylish steakhouse has vast city views that compete with the excellent steakhouse fare coming out of chef de cuisine Jacques Qualin's kitchen. While we prefer to get the deluxe treatment in the dining room, the views are just as good from the lounge, where you can order a burger and beer and get a taste of the J&G experience at a sweet price.
Steaks here are delicious, but there's more than meats, er, meets the eye at Modern Steak. We also adore the lovely, fresh salads, quirky eats like the foot-long Kobe beef hotdog, appealing seafood dishes such as miso-glazed Chilean sea bass with crispy oyster mushrooms, and desserts that aren't just an afterthought (a sampler of moist cupcakes, crowned with creamy frosting, is our favorite). What's more, the scene here is packed with tasty eye candy — just wading through the crowd to get to the bar makes for interesting people-watching, and the cleverly shaded patio makes dining right next to the Fashion Square parking lot seem genuinely desirable. Who'da thunk it?
Sick of typical dips? Scoop up something with a little snap from Sabeur Ruin, a.k.a. Dr. Hummus. A native of North Africa, Ruin regularly prescribes his chickpea concoctions as the cure-all for dull party fare. A secret family recipe handed down from his grandmother, the hummus comes in four flavors, including Original, Artichoke, Garlic, and as a nod to Ruin's adopted hometown of Phoenix, Spicy Jalapeño. Pair one of these with Dr. Hummus' homemade pita chips and you've got a healthful snack that is just what the doctor ordered.
Describe a flavor with adjectives like smoky, spicy, and multi-layered, and you might expect to be sampling a fine wine, not noshing on the culinary handiwork of the folks at Schreiner's Fine Sausages. After having purchased the business from its original owners, Gary Schiller has been handcrafting quality meat products for almost 30 years. His experience and love for the business is evident in the amazing flavors produced in the small smoke shop located behind the iconic red-and-white retail front. With more than 60 varieties to choose from, we feel confident that just one bite of a Schreiner's sausage will have you singing its praises.
When it comes to food, simple is usually best. Why mess up something yummy with unnecessary complication? So when we're hungry for kimchee, we simply head for Paldo Market. Paldo has freshly made containers of the Korean staple ready to go in multiple varieties. If Napa cabbage is your favorite flavor, rest assured it's so delicious that the temptation to consume it all on the drive home may be too much to resist. We prefer the green onion version, stir-fried with a little bulgogi. Either way you're consuming a locally made version of a dish Health magazine declared one of the world's healthiest foods.
We shouldn't be telling you about this. But on Friday mornings, Royal at the Market gives birth to the most decadent of breakfast treats. It's got chocolate. It's got bacon. It's available for only a few nanoseconds. We're talking about bacon brownies. If you're at the Royal at 8 a.m. (if you can't make it that early, you don't deserve the brownies), you'll smell them baking. Get in line and pray to God that there's no one ahead of you. The faithful will be rewarded with the most lusciously indulgent salty square of satisfaction known to man. Those who show up late will find that they're sold out. How long do you expect bacon brownies to last?
Chef Kelly Fletcher may not be the first to make a VLT, but he'd argue that his is absolutely the best. And we wouldn't disagree. He's no stranger to using controversial ingredients — not that he thinks veal should even be in that category. But he loves telling the story about the time he shot a segment with a local television station and was asked to make a few dishes. His last dish used foie gras. Within minutes of the segment airing, Fletcher says, the restaurant phone was ringing with threats and arguments. Good thing he loves it. When he gets pushback from an ingredient, it only fuels his desire to make more. Okay, back to the veal bacon: Fletcher brought in a veal breast (same cut as a pork belly) and kept turning it over, as it reminded him of the cut of pork he used for Tricks' bacon. "So I said, 'Fuck it, we're making veal bacon — no, we're making VLTs!'" says Fletcher. Topped with white truffle aioli, cherry tomatoes, and arugula, and hugged by a pâté à choux bun, Fletcher's VLTs aren't getting any threats from us.
There's plenty to love about this super-authentic bakery/cafe, which specializes in Polish and Eastern European delicacies, baked fresh every day and displayed in vintage-looking, glass-fronted cases. We're crazy about their fruit-filled doughnuts, the pierogi, and the hot, black, chicory-flavored coffee they serve here. We're nuts about the little grocery section stocked with non-perishables like we've only ever seen in little Polish villages. But the single item that keeps us coming back, time and again, is Europa's tasty, flaky prune Danish. Baked in-house every day, it's a sweet-glazed, tangy, prune-filled marvel that nearly floats from our plate into our now-happy mouth. Yum.
What's soft, inviting, and vaguely exotic? Get your head out of the gutter and into an oven. We're talking about bread — the most wonderful bread we've laid teeth on. Jonathan Robins' kalamata olive bread came into our life via the Tempe Farmers Market, the only place in town to purchase it. It's packed full of olives, making it so delicious that spreads, butters, and other toppings only distract from the deliciousness. One day we may try one of the bakery's other breads. One day.
When Glenda Looney, a cook for the original Ranch House Grille in Page, brought a recipe for homemade pork chili verde to the restaurant nine years ago, owners Phil and Maryjane Kline knew they had struck green gold — passing on the spicy sauce made with tender chunks of pork shoulder to son Leland when he opened the Phoenix location in 2007. Diners wanting a delicious dose can have it served atop a crispy chicken fried steak or classic huevos rancheros, waiting inside a fluffy omelet, singled out in a cup or bowl, or take-home ready in $8 pints and $15 quarts.
Exotic. Tough to find. Fun to say. What better way to turn salads, pasta, beans and rice, even ice cream, into far-out fare than with the addition of yulu seeds? From the bonete, a wild tree native to Mexico, yulus are tiny, crunchy, fiber-packed orbs with a taste that's similar to sunflower seeds. To find yulus, you'll need to chance upon Constantino Aranda, purveyor and master roaster of the sensational seeds, at the Downtown Phoenix Public Market, as well as the Ahwatukee and Mesa farmers markets. Once each year, Aranda crosses the Arizona-Mexico border to bring back yulus harvested by a local tribe, selling them by the bagful until they're gone.
It is hard to imagine making butter any better, but Jennifer VanInwengen has managed to whip up several flavored varieties that raise the bar on the decadent creamy goodness our grandmothers swore by. Her compound butters aren't just for your morning toast (though we love the honey cinnamon butter on a crispy waffle); they can also be your secret shortcut to seasoning success. Spread the sun-dried tomato butter on your favorite crusty bread and sprinkle with a little Parmesan for instant bruschetta. Or sink your teeth into a steak slathered with the garlic herb butter. Whichever way, we can't think of a better way to butter up your fare.
Karl, who hails from Switzerland, loves his customers. If you're lucky enough to visit the ever-expanding and increasingly upscale counter when the baker himself is surveying his goods, he's sure to offer you one of his famous bran mini-muffins. He'll force it on you, really. And God forbid his baker elves under-fill an éclair. "Would you want to pay for this?" he'll demand.This is a full-service retail bakery where the idea of outsourcing is sacrilege. Everything's made on premises with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Berries are never dried or frozen. Flavoring? Uh, no. That mango mousse is made with mangoes. Must-tries? Alligator coffee cake, pumpkin doughnuts, bread pudding with whiskey sauce, quiche, pizza, said éclairs, and signature hand-dipped or -iced cookies. Do yourself a favor once in your life. Try the blueberry and cream cheese super-muffin. Trust us.
We started going to Copper Star because the iced coffee is second to none — and that's because owner Bill Sandweg is a connoisseur and, therefore, knows his way around a nice tidy glass of black java on the rocks. But we ended up addicted to Copper Star's Black and White Cupcakes, baked in-house by the cafe's manager and resident baker, Mindy Porter. Nearly all Porter's recipes were handed down from her grandmother, and these moist, tasty cupcakes — which started out as an occasional special but are now a daily staple at Copper Star, because customers kept asking for them — is among Grandma Porter's best. Moist, cake-like dark chocolate surrounds a cheesecake center that's super-creamy but not too sweet. And that's our excuse for always eating two of them when we're there.
Talk about unassuming. The cheesecakes at Bertha's Café may not make an appearance on the in-house menu, but their taste is anything but bashful. After years of supplying the delicious indulgence to family and friends, owner and chef Beth Goldwater ran with her reputation for cheesecakes and opened Bertha's Café as a breakfast, lunch, and dessert destination in 2005. From the standout s'mores and baklava flavors to the popular tiramisu and original flavors, Goldwater's daily-made cheesecake creations are creamy goodness cradled in a foundation of rich, brown, sweet crust. They are available as call-ahead orders or by the heavenly slice.
The name alone makes Sid's Viciously Good Cookies worthy of one of our annual awards, though the Sid in question is actually a former corporate executive named Sidney Miller who turned her back on the rat race in favor of the cookie press when she became a mom. We discovered Sid's cookies at a local AJ's Fine Foods and were wowed by the soft, gooey circles. The best way to get them hot and fresh is by calling Miller directly and placing an order. Currently, she offers four flavors that focus on classic ingredients. Our favorite is the Peanut Buttah: rich, doughy circles with chunks of peanut butter in the batter. It reminds us of licking spoonfuls of peanut butter at summer camp. Not that we'll pass up the double chocolate cookies or the white chocolate and almond "With Love . . . Annie V" variety. At the risk of sounding cliché, all of Sid's Viciously Good Cookies really rock.
We loved her for years as pastry chef at Cowboy Ciao, and since she's been on her own, we've only gotten sweeter on Tracy Dempsey, whose confections seem to pop up everywhere. We're fans of her homemade marshmallows, which you'll find at the Scottsdale Old Town Farmers Market in rotating flavors that include hot chocolate, vanilla bean, and rosebud. Who needs a campfire? Just give us a bag of Tracy's pillowy, perfectly sweet marshmallows and we'll melt. Visit her website for other locations where marshmallows and her other treats are sold. We also love Tracy for her marshmallow heart. In October, she's co-sponsoring Cupcake Love-In, a fundraiser benefiting Singleton Moms, a local nonprofit assisting single mothers battling cancer, and Safe Haven, a no-kill animal shelter. (More details at www.cupcakelovein.com.)
Remember Adam Ant's catchy lyrics, "don't drink, don't smoke, what do you do?" Apparently, make toffee good enough to replace a morning quickie. Mother-daughter team Donna Gabrilson and Stacey Barnes of Scottsdale's Goody Twos Toffee Company wield a double-edge sword of deliciousness. Their handmade confections come in traditional flavors, including peanut brittle, chocolate peppermint, and the crunchy Double-Crossed (almonds and milk, dark, and white chocolates). Daughter Stacey corrupted us with the Nutty-Twist, an out-of-this-world blend of nuts, lime, Cruz Tequila, and chocolate. Considering that liquor lowers inhibitions and chocolate causes the same physical reaction in the brain as sex, we're guessing that Stacey is not the goody two-shoes in this pairing.
When eaten, chocolate causes the brain to amp up endorphin secretions similar to those released when you have sex. That's the fancy, scientific way of saying it makes you tingle all over. Engineer turned chocolatier Sam Filicetti, a.k.a. Sam the Chocolate Guy, definitely makes us tingle with his ib2 chocolates, featuring sensual spices in the tradition of the ancient Mayans. Filicetti has an almost spiritual connection with his newfound career, describing in detail to anyone who'll listen about the painstaking process of getting melted chocolate to do his bidding. His confections include relaxing lavender-infused chocolates and an espresso variety made with Lux coffee beans, but our favorite is an anti-depressant variety that combines rich, 54 percent cocoa solids with spicy chiles that also raise endorphin levels. Serve that to your partner, along with wine in one of ib2's chocolate cups, and you'll be in for one sweet night.
We don't know whether candy storeowner Louis Auster, the inventor of the chocolate egg cream, ever visited the Valley. But if he did — that is, if he also lived in the early 21st century, rather than the late 19th century — it's likely he'd head straight for Scott's Generations to find out what this ultra-Bronx deli has done with his little brainchild.What he'd find is that this local eatery has made a masterpiece of this delicious mix of chocolate syrup, milk, and seltzer. The chocolate egg cream at Scott's Generations is so perfect that it screams "Brooklyn!"
The long-neck spoon? Yeah, you're gonna need that. Featuring creamy scoopfuls of vanilla ice cream, milk, and chunks of fresh banana (most barely making the journey through the straw), the banana shake at the Chicago Hamburger Company is a tackle-worthy treat. Hungry dessert monkeys can order it with extra bananas or they can go combo, mixing homemade banana bliss with chocolate or strawberry, a staff favorite. A small will run you around $4 and a large one is $5. Both require the accompanying spoon to capture every last banana-licious bite.
Over the past year, self-serve frozen yogurt has eclipsed gelato as the cold treat of choice here in Phoenix. We love the tart varieties. We adore the abundance of toppings. But there's one yogurt in town that's like crack to our heat-addled brains, and that's Yogurtology's oatmeal cookie flavor. Sure, the cheesecake and red velvet varieties are tasty, but the Oatmeal Cookie makes every other flavor taste vanilla in comparison. Made with real oatmeal cookies and a host of other secret ingredients the owner won't reveal, it's rich and creamy with an earthy, sweet flavor that tastes exactly like the fresh-baked cookies Grandma made in our childhood. Forget the gummy bears and Oreos. This flavor doesn't need any dressing up to taste like a million bucks.
If you still have not tasted Sweet Republic ice cream, we instruct you to put this issue of "Best of Phoenix" down and proceed immediately to 91st Street and Shea in Scottsdale, or to a Whole Foods, and shove some of this stuff down your gullet. Your butt might grow, but you will thank us, because — screw our Valley boundaries — this is the best ice cream we've ever tasted, anywhere. The salted butter caramel is insanely rich, the perfect sweet/salty fix, and we've never tasted anything quite like the mint chip. If you're looking for hip, funky flavors, like blue cheese, they've got those, too. Really, you can't go wrong. As long as you go.
Why didn't we think of this? Ice cream and alcohol, together at last — and served out of a super-sweet Neopolitan-hued little shop on Stetson Drive in what's become the heart of good eating in Scottsdale. The friendly woman who waited on us said the late-night crowd at Lee's is kickin', which isn't surprising, but she cautioned that you can't really get drunk from a scoop or two of this ice cream. Which is good, because we scarfed our vanilla almond — spiked with tequila — and hopped behind the wheel, high on sugar, if nothing else, and ready to spread the word about our favorite new treat.
We all know those nights. Is it worth it to get showered, dressed, deal with the 110-degree heat, traffic, and parking to go out and get the favorite appetizer we're craving, or do we stay in our PJs and settle for the Ritz crackers and string cheese we've already got?Delicious Deliveries solves the conundrum. Simply sign on to their site, enter your ZIP code for participating nearby restaurants, order online, add a tip, and, for an amazingly small fee, enjoy your favorite restaurant meal delivered directly to your door. One night not long ago, we dined on Parmesan zucchini sticks and ahi tuna salad, all for the ridiculously low delivery fee of $6. With a free red velvet cupcake thrown in! Become a friend of DD on Facebook and learn of specials (like free delivery) throughout the week.
After an intense day of power shopping, we need a nice glass of wine. We need to be well fed. And most of the time, that's an experience we can find only if we plunk our shopping bags in the trunk of the car and go far, far away from the mall. But not at Kierland Commons, where The Greene House's vibrant, California-inspired atmosphere and delicious eats are all we need for that mental getaway. You'd never think you're sitting in the middle of so much retail at this airy bungalow, which seems like it ought to be right next to the Pacific. Likewise, dishes like sea scallops with caramelized cauliflower, King salmon on a bed of butter lettuce with marble potato and caper-mustard vinaigrette, and sweet corn cannelloni with baby tomatoes are all edible antidotes to sale-rack fatigue.
Tucked at the base of the Superstition Mountains, the Mining Camp Restaurant has been around since 1961. It really looks like a shack where miners would go for lunch; even the interior is modeled after an old mining camp cook's shanty. The place serves food that will please the youngest of the group right along with the old-timers, including slabs of grilled meat, potatoes, beans and fresh-baked goods, including a very large brownie called the Kahlua. And here's the real cherry on top: Kids under 4 eat free — after the restaurant reopens for the season on November 1.
We used to think that afternoon tea was strictly for blue-haired old ladies and British expats pining for their homeland — that is, until we partook of tea service at the Ritz. It has all the relaxation benefits of a spa treatment, without the creepy touchy-feely stuff. For $35 (plus tax and gratuity), you get tea sandwiches, an assortment of bite-size desserts, and sweet cranberry white chocolate and buttermilk scones with fresh Devonshire cream that's so good you'd lick the last drop off your fingers if it weren't for the stink-eye you'd get from other guests. But what sets the Ritz's high tea apart from tea services at other swanky hotels is tea maître d' Jeffrey Hattrick, a host who knows when to entertain you with a quick story, inquire if you're ready for the next course, or just leave you the heck alone while you sip another cup of his delicious Winter custom blend.
Executive Chef Beau MacMillan is a longtime luminary in the Valley culinary scene, but nowadays he's also a bona fide celebrity chef, thanks to his role as co-host of The Food Network's Worst Cooks in America. Stop in for a lavish dinner and an eyeful of Paradise Valley from elements' swanky dining room, and don't be surprised if MacMillan shows up to meet and greet guests. The amiable chef is also on hand for the restaurant's summer "Lunch and Learn" series and serves exquisite multi-course tasting menus in elements' new private dining room, XII, where sliding glass doors open up into the show kitchen. We wondered whether Beau Mac's charisma was just TV magic, but he's a gracious guy in real life, too.
Chef-owner Michael DeMaria's latest culinary concept isn't the kind of upscale fare you'll find at his North Scottsdale spot Heirloom, but it's nevertheless a welcome addition to the dining mix along the light rail. Situated on Central Avenue at Thomas Road — at the heart of the midtown business district — this is a convenient place to grab a morning pastry and a latte, a sandwich or some pizza for lunch, or maybe a succulent rotisserie chicken to take home for dinner. There's a salad bar, too, and surprisingly good pasta (something we rarely find in a cafeteria). For hungry folks on the go, Mid City Kitchen makes a great pit stop.
In the game of love, you never want to look like you're trying too hard. So T. Cook's is always the ace up our sleeve, because dinner here makes romance seem effortless. The dining room alone feels elegant and special, and when there's a guitar player on hand, the live musical serenades put plenty of hearts and stars in our eyes. Thanks to a very gracious staff, the pace of a meal is just right, and executive chef Lee Hillson's Mediterranean-influenced cuisine will make you fall even further in love — seafood-stuffed paella, "poulet rouge" chicken stuffed with Boursin cheese and spinach, and roasted pork tenderloin with orange gremolata are among the temptations. Even if Valentine's Day is still months away, a visit to T. Cook's will help you bring sexy back.
There are certainly places that serve food much later than Petite Maison, but how many of them do more than tacos or burgers? This comfy Old Town nook does rustic French cuisine, which sounds pretty darn good to us — why go for pub grub when you can dig into steak frites, mussels in white wine broth, or an ever-changing "Staff Meal" offering such food as Buffalo frogs legs, ceviche, barbecue sliders, or something cooked up by one of the guest chefs who pop in for a night? If you're out and you're hungry between 10 and midnight on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday, Petite Maison should be at the top of your list.
What makes Kai such a standout? Let us count the ways. First, there's the beautiful resort setting, with dining-room views overlooking both the pool and a vast stretch of desert. Servers address you by name, bring you chilled or warmed flatware depending on the course, deliver dishes in unison, and are well-schooled on the finer points of sophisticated cuisine. It's a good thing they're so knowledgeable and attentive, because even the most obsessive gourmet will find something unusual here to talk about, whether it's the provenance of the extra virgin olive oil (Kai's signature blend from Queen Creek), or the use of exquisite desert delicacies such as cholla buds, scarlet runner beans, and saguaro seeds. Executive chef Michael O'Dowd creates unique, regionally inspired dishes that are unlike anything else in the state; poached arctic char with fennel pesto, and grilled tenderloin of buffalo with smoked corn puree are two specialties that should put Kai on everyone's epicurean map.
We used to love El Chorro Lodge for the kitsch factor — old-fashioned furniture, complimentary crudites, and a genteel, gray-haired crowd that showed up for classic continental fare. But the place has gotten a serious, big-bucks makeover from its new owners, and now is an outright destination, the kind of spot that makes us want to sip a bloody Mary on the patio under beautiful skies. Contemporary furnishings, new art, cozy fireplaces, a more airy dining room, and a big bar that opens to the outdoors make El Chorro feel new, but it hasn't ditched the details that made us like El Chorro to begin with — including the legendary free basket of warm sticky buns. This historic building has been around since the '30s, and thanks to its lovely facelift, we can see it lasting for many more decades.
While renowned chef Kevin Binkley's fine-dining spot, Binkley's, would be considered an über-special-occasion spot for most of us, its sassy younger sibling, Cafe Bink, is so accessible that we'd be eating there every week — if only we lived in Carefree. The common thread between both restaurants is Binkley's classic French cooking techniques; here, the emphasis is contemporary American cuisine that draws upon the homey aspects of Gallic tradition (think country pâté, luscious French onion soup, and steak frites) and Mediterranean influences as well (pulled-to-order mozzarella with red onion marmalade, pesto, and confit campari tomatoes). Cafe Bink doesn't try to be the culinary destination that Binkley's is, but we still consider it well worth the drive north.
It's hard to top an original, so we'd like to give special props to the folks who made The Vig Uptown a fitting follow-up to its popular home in Arcadia. This new location of the stylish watering hole manages to offer the same appealing menu — excellent nachos with succulent pork, a potato pancake topped with carne asada, the VigAzz burger topped with peppered bacon and smoked Gouda, and finger-lickin'-good "vings" (grilled chicken wings) — as well as a similarly bumpin' atmosphere with DJs and pretty people. If there's any better use for a revamped 1960s Ralph Haver bank building, we'd sure like to know.
This is the place for brave and adventurous eaters. Sure, you can get a standard, wimpy bean taco at Tacos Jalisco, but you can get that anywhere. Tacos Jalisco isn't a cart on the side of the road, but you should plan on a food truck/street taco experience. When you step into Tacos Jalisco, you have entered an arena where bold, unexpected surprises are offered. This restaurant serves brain tacos, spicy goat meat tacos, pickled jalapeo, and platters of oysters. If you are planning a visit, take your heartburn meds first and know you'll be leaving with a smile on your face and a runny nose from the heat.
Initially, we visited Dino's because we'd heard that the lasagna is superb, but we ended up eating half of our dining companion's gyro, because it — like the lasagna at this off-the-beaten-path diner — was so tasty. Order the Gyro Plate, which comes with sides of fingerling potatoes, rice pilaf, and fresh vegetables to accompany a mountain of gyro meat stacked on a huge pita with plenty of tzatziki sauce, made in Dino's kitchen. If the measure of a truly good gyro is its meat, then Dino wins by a mile with a mix of thin-shaved beef and lamb that can be matched with any number of grilled sides and spices. Opa!
Best Way to Eat Your Spinach
California Spinach Salad, at Maizie's Café & Bistro
For days (okay, it was really hours) a debate raged in the halls of the New Times building over whether or not Popeye is actually a superhero. "No way. He's a cartoon character!" one colleague pronounced."Are you kidding? He's the original superhero!" another cried, just as adamant. In any case, we think it wise for all of us looking to be super-heroic to eat our super-foods, so we'll share our favorite spot to get a dose of spinach. We prefer it fresh, not canned, thank you very much, served in a big woven bowl at Maizie's Café, a sweet little spot just off the light rail on Central Avenue. Piles of fresh spinach are tossed with sherry vinaigrette, dried cranberries, mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, and goat cheese. Enjoy it with a glass of vino; Maizie's has a fine selection of that, too. Popeye might not approve, but we hear red wine's a super-food, too.
Arnie's is the place to go to stock up on vitamins and herbs that will make you super-strong, to fight off those pesky bugs that try to get your immune system down. This is also the shop to visit to buy in bulk all the healthful stuff you should be eating — like brown rice, oat bran, and flax seed. The sign out front permanently displays an ad that reads, "Oat Bran $2." Arnie's has a refrigerated section filled with tasty and fresh dried fruit (along with some other oddities that may not be as tasty but are darn good for you). When you go, pick up a large jar of the local honey for sale — it's said to help with desert allergies. Arnie's is a small shop as health food stores go, but the personal attention is worth the limited options. And who needs all those choices when the right ones are found here?
We've eaten them all over town, and we can safely say that the super hero that packs the biggest punch is served at Venezia's, where a hot sandwich can make you want to leap over a tall building in a single bound. It's that tasty. All their sandwiches are made with premium Boar's Head meats and cheeses and are served with homemade marinara, Parmigiana, and mozzarella cheese — and a bag of chips. But we think it's the soft, warm, homemade bread that really sets Venezia's sandwiches apart from other contenders. Our favorite is the Sausage, Peppers, and Onion Hero, which is priced at a measly $6.49, even though it tastes like a million bucks' worth of spicy Italian sausage, fried green peppers, and sautéed onions. For lunch or dinner, we think this sandwich is super, man.
See: a video interview with Nobuo Fukuda.
Four years ago — fresh out of college — I left the United States and landed on a small island south of Osaka, Japan, where I spent the better part of a year teaching English to children who will grow up to be fishermen, hanging out at way too many Japanese rock shows and eating fabulously good sushi. It was the best time of my life, but it left me with some lingering questions. Questions like what element in human nature drives us to leave behind everything we've ever known, to trade in the comfortable for whatever else is out there, to adventure in foreign lands? Sometimes, you just have to take that journey.
If there is an answer to be had, it may lie within the heart and mind of Phoenix's own Chef Nobuo Fukuda. He took the opposite journey, falling in love with Phoenix four years before I was even born. He found here a place with wide-open spaces full of potential and the chance to build his life the way he wanted it. He left Japan and set up shop here. How can you help respecting the hell out of a person like that?
First, there was Sea Saw restaurant, where Fukuda revolutionized the way Phoenicians thought about and ate high-end sashimi. These days, he's still pushing the envelope of Japanese cuisine at his new restaurant, Nobuo at Teeter House, in downtown's Heritage Square. In a tiny and cramped kitchen, he summons gigantic flavors in his fried soft-shell crab sandwich, his aiolis infused with Japanese chili sauces, and his signature take on sashimi. He regularly exposes Phoenix to something priceless: a taste of another culture. Something I believe we could all use a lot more of. — Jonathan McNamara
New Times web editor Jonathan McNamara would gladly start his life over in Tokyo should the opportunity present itself. He interviewed Fukuda on August 11 at the chef's new restaurant, Nobuo at Teeter House.
When I was a kid, I went to see the World Fair in Osaka. It blew my mind to see so many different kinds of people. They had Asian. They had European invites. In Japan, there is only one kind of people. They had a rock from the moon. They had lines for two hours to see this rock from the moon. I think I already knew I wanted to move out from that small country.
When I'm driving, I listen to the radio. Talk radio. Sometimes music. On the way to work I'm thinking about what else I have to do. When I'm coming back from work, it's usually how dinner was. There's a lot of work, work, work in my mind right now. Maybe some day, I won't have to think like that.
My favorite thing to eat in Phoenix is Vietnamese rice noodle soup — pho. From Da Vang. Between rice noodle soup, pho with beef, and duck soup with egg noodle or seafood with egg noodle.
To me, Japanese cuisine is different in the United States because Japanese food in Japan . . . there are so many different kinds everywhere from high-end to street food to home-cooked to country-style. However, in the U.S., there is usually only one kind — like sushi, tempura, teriyaki, something like this. Very limited. I think in the near future, there will be more variety of Japanese cooking. In New York, different styles of ramen are popular now.
I don't like eating anything I have high expectations for and it doesn't live up. It's that I have such a small stomach. It could be anything, but it should be good enough to use up my time and stomach.
My challenge is it's very hard to get ingredients; especially seafood. Fortunately with vegetables, a lot of local farms are starting to get in more and more and work with us.
If I weren't cooking I'd probably go back to the mountain. I was on a ski patrol for 10 or 12 years.
Without my hands I'd be devastated.
My hero is Bruce Lee? At the age I was watching his movies, I was like, "He is a god."
Before bed I always drink.
Use of this website constitutes acceptance of our
terms of use,
our cookies policy, and our
privacy policy.
View our accessibility policy and AI policy.
The Phoenix New Times may earn a portion of sales from products & services purchased through links on our site from our affiliate partners.
©2025
Phoenix New Times, LLC. All rights reserved.
Do Not Sell or Share My Information
Do Not Sell or Share My Information
