Consider the burrito, which is maybe the most enticing parcel of tinfoil-wrapped hot food to ever come out of a crinkled paper bag. The burrito is a multifaceted, highly personal piece of sustenance. Maybe your preference is a burrito wrapped in a slightly crackled tortilla, oozing molten-hot refried beans and ribbons of melted cheddar. Or maybe your dream burrito is a marvel of engineering, a soft, fleshy container for stewed beef made in the classic northern Mexico style. Either way, serious burrito connoisseurs will want to make a west-side pilgrimage to Taquerías El Chino for the restaurant's consistently wonderful carne en salsa verde burrito. This green chile burrito is neither flashy nor revolutionary, but it hearkens back to the dish's working-class roots: Hearty and life-sustaining, it's last night's stew swaddled in a soft, pliable tortilla. Its green sauce is thick and rich, its hunks of tender beef are succulent, and the seasoning is perfection. It's a burrito for the ages.